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At Home in Bequia
By : Claire Bidwell Smith
As a kid growing up, my family spent two weeks every December on a small island in the Caribbean. We looked forward to the holidays every year—and not because of the gifts we hoped to receive, but rather for the chance to wade out into the cool, clear ocean waters every day. In the mornings, my mother would hold out soggy bits of bread to the orbiting sea turtles and, beside her, I would dig my toes into the soft coral sand.
These memories stayed with me long into my adulthood, although 20 years later, the island we used to visit has since become crowded with chain resorts and dying coral reefs—a problem common among many Caribbean destinations.
However, on a recent trip through the Grenadines, with my toes sifting through the warm granulated sands of the island of Bequia, I felt a deep sense of nostalgia for that lost paradise of my youth, realizing I had somehow found myself there again.
The Grenadines, often likened to a handful of glittering jewels flung against the turquoise expanse of the Eastern Caribbean, string themselves out across 40 miles of ocean. Bequia ("BEK-way"), one of the largest of the 32 islands, is rumored to have one of the prettiest harbors in all the Caribbean. Bequia's Port Elizabeth in Admiralty Bay remains a favorite secret among the yachting set—an advantage that has helped to keep the island relatively tourist-free.
Only seven square miles, Bequia retains a rich culture of boat building, whaling and fishing traditions. It's possible to see the entire island in just a couple of hours, although it's much more pleasant to do so over a matter of days, languidly drawing out visits to the old plantation-style waterfront hotels and gingerbread-trimmed cottages. Besides, there's snorkeling in the crystalline waters of Lower Bay Beach and made-to-order french fries at Dawn's Creole Beach Café to enjoy.
On my first night, sipping a passion colada at the hotel, I observed an old, gruff yacht captain moor at the little dock in front of the open-air restaurant. He tied up his dinghy and meandered up to the bar, greeting the bartender by name and letting out a deep sigh, "It's good to be home." Everyone I encountered on Bequia issued a similar sentiment. Nothing changes here, they told me, and that's what they like about it.
The Frangipani Hotel, the most well-known Bequian watering hole, just celebrated its 40th anniversary. The property boasts a rich history, having belonged to one of the island's oldest seafaring families and dating back to 1898. The waterfront bar and restaurant are a must-stop among yachties. Frangi Jump Up steel band and barbecue party is the only place on the island to be on Thursdays, packed with visitors and locals alike.
Although you shouldn't miss the opportunity to watch the sunset from such a setting, there are lots of other things to do on Bequia. True to my family tradition, I rose early each morning to wade out into the cool Caribbean water. Snorkeling off Lower Bay Beach, I followed a school of shimmering squid and dove down to peer closely at parrotfish and lavender anemones. There are two dive shops on the island, Dive Bequia and Bequia Dive Adventures, both offering daily trips to revered sites like Boulders, where divers can swim through enormous rocks and spot the occasional nurse shark.
There are also quite a few artists' studios on Bequia; in particular, the island is known for its long tradition of model boat crafting. Visitors shouldn't pass up the opportunity to stop by Sargeant Brothers Model Boat Shop, where you can meet the boat makers and explore the studio. At the Bequia Maritime Museum, you can expect a personal tour by Lawson Sargeant, who presented Queen Elizabeth with his perfectly crafted HMY Britannia on her official visit to the island in 1985. The one-room museum, with its lazily spinning ceiling fan and old framed photos depicting the history of Bequia's ancient whaling and boat-making practices, is the perfect place to spend an afternoon.
On the windward side of the island, the beaches remain even more untouched, although the swimming can be a bit rougher. Rent a jeep from Handy Andy—the gregarious and entrepreneurial grandson of James Mitchell, former prime minister and original owner of the Frangipani—and set out for an afternoon of exploring. The roads can be a bit confusing and sometimes in disrepair, so if you'd prefer, Sandra from Challenger Taxi will drive you around in her comfortable open-air touring vehicles.
In the late afternoon of my last day on Bequia, I made my way to the far end of the island to meet Orton King, who maintains the Old Hegg Turtle Sanctuary. King is a former free diver who went from "catching turtles to saving turtles." In his hatchery, perched right over the cerulean water and set against a lush piece of land roaming with roosters, he takes care of more than 150 turtles, all of which he plans to release back out into the wild. He only keeps one as a pet, the 11-year-old Busybody, who begs with a flap of her fin to have her shell scratched.
An hour later, standing on the rooftop deck of the ferry that would take me to bustling St. Vincent and a flight back to the States, I watched Port Elizabeth recede in the distance and I had the distinct feeling of having just been home.
Book your trip today! Visit www.aa.com, call American/American Eagle reservations at 1-800-433-7300, or call your travel agent for more information.
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