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Grand Junction's Wine Country
By : Tania Casselle
Photos J. Kevin Foltz
"If you forget everything you were ever told about wine, remember this...," Bob Witham pauses causing visitors to his Two Rivers Winery to lean forward in the oak-fragranced gloom, surrounded by barrels of aging Chardonnay. "When wine comes in, secrets come out."
Already it's clear that one secret is out—Grand Junction's wine country (visitgrandjunction.com) is flourishing, with award-winning wines taking their place at the table alongside some of the best in America. And what better way to share the secret than to take a tour of Grand Valley vineyards? More than 19 wineries clustered around Grand Junction and Palisade have tasting rooms, and winemakers are eager not only to share their bounty but also their craft with behind-the-vine tours. Before Witham leads his oenophile visitors back out of his cellar and into the dazzling Colorado sun to let them loose in the tasting room, he describes using garlic paste to seal leaks in the $1,000 barrels—the pressure inside stops the garlic from seeping in and tainting the flavor.
The Grape Escape
The world's best wine regions tend to be spectacularly beautiful, and Colorado's Grand Valley is no exception, wrapped between three landmark vistas. The red rock spires of Colorado National Monument frame one side of the valley. Turn around to see 40-mile-wide Grand Mesa, one of the world's largest flat-top mountains and often called the "Island in the Sky." In between, the dramatic Book Cliffs jut against the blue. Every direction is picture-perfect.
Winemakers give credit to Mother Nature for their success. The high-altitude sunshine, averaging more than 275 days a year, matures the grapes and builds sugars, while cooler evenings help retain acids. Wine alchemy also benefits from a dry climate; the "Million Dollar Breeze" funneled through DeBeque Canyon to blow away morning frosts; and the fertile soil from sediments left by the Colorado River—originally called the Grand River, hence Grand Junction's name.
Heard It Through the Grapevine
There's no wine snobbery in this laid-back region—the winemakers clearly revel in their work and want visitors to enjoy the fruits of their labors, too. Beside some great choices of classic Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, a vineyard tour reveals the stunning Rieslings for which Colorado has built a reputation in recent years. Other less familiar varietals include Viognier—a white with light floral aromas and hints of fruit. DeBeque Canyon Winery's award-winning Viognier is an excellent example. Lemberger, a grape growing in popularity in America, produces a quaffable spicy red that many Colorado folks pair with wild game. Try the Tyrannosaurus Red Lemberger—a nod to the dinosaur heritage of the region—at Carlson Vineyards, where every hour is happy hour, and a server evokes the frontier spirit as she slams yet another bottle on the black slate counter, yelling, "Anybody wanna try the Prairie Dog Blush?" Also, don't miss their cherry wine served with dark chocolate melted on the rim of the glass. To find Carlson's, follow the sign to "Sunny Dale Nudist Colony"—a spoof by local artist Lyle Nichols, whose public sculptures include the enormous Chardonnay Chicken, made of rusted farm tools, outside the Plum Creek Winery. There are more than 100 "Art on the Corner" sidewalk sculptures in Grand Junction.
Gewürztraminer is another Grand Valley favorite, plus fruit wines, thanks to the lush orchards growing cherries, plums and the famous Palisade peaches. On a sweet note, Ptarmigan Vineyards' Muscat is packed with fruit and honey flavor, but without the traditional heaviness of this dessert wine, as winemaker Ron Neal doesn't like syrupy wines himself. He brings a lighter, more modern touch to his Muscat. Some wineries also offer terrific ports. If you fancy more variety after the vino, try the range of meads at the Meadery of the Rockies, or check out Peach Street Distillers' artisan vodka made from Olathe sweet corn. Of course, there's a peach-flavored vodka, too, plus pear and plum brandies, and a new in-demand Bourbon—the first batch sold out in three weeks.
Barreling Around
Pick up a vineyard map or follow your nose—there's a winery around almost every corner. If you don't want to drive, join a half-day scheduled tour, or a limo service will customize a trip for you. Or rent a bike. Pedaling lazily through country lanes is the best way to see—and smell—the peach orchards dotted between the vineyards. If you spot a sign for 33 3?4 road, don't worry, the wine hasn't gone to your head! Roads are numbered according to distance from the Utah border, so you're 33 3?4 miles from the state line. This small community of winemakers has a family feel—just say that you love dry reds or fruity whites, and if one winery can't suit your taste, they'll direct you to another that will.
Perfect Pairings
For lunch, grab a picnic and head into the Canyon Wind Cellars estate through rows of Cabernet Sauvignon vines. Buy a bottle of the end result (with delicious hints of chocolate and coffee) and hang out under shady trees, admiring the view. Other vineyards have picnic areas, too, including Ptarmigan's pretty raised deck. For dinner, try Grand Junction's stylish 626 on Rood, or convivial Il Bistro Italiano.
Where to Stay
The new Wine Country Inn, set in 21 acres of working vineyards, is the ideal base for exploring the wine country. Inspired by the owners' visits to wine properties in France, Italy and California, the Victorian-style Wine Country Inn is elegant but relaxed, with welcoming rooms decorated in soothing harvest colors—mellow yellows and warm clarets—and offering understated luxury in details from sumptuous beds to flat-panel TVs. Sunset on the wraparound patios affords grand views of the Book Cliffs and Grand Mesa. You can also soak in the outdoor hot tub under Colorado stars that feel close enough to touch. Arrive in time for the daily complimentary wine reception to meet other guests and taste the Inn's own wines, produced by Grande River Vineyards next door. Grande River also hosts summer concerts in its outdoor amphitheater, and has a mini "sample vineyard" where visitors can view nine different grape varietals on the vine. ¡Salud!
coloradowinecountryinn.com
How To Get There: American Eagle provides service to Grand Junction.
Book your trip today! Visit www.aa.com, call American/American Eagle reservations at 1-800-433-7300, or call your travel agent for more information.
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