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The Colors of Dominica
By : Ken Rivadeneira
Photos J. Kevin Foltz
There are those who think all the Caribbean has to offer are "white, sandy beaches and azure seas." While those things are nice, they don't even begin to scratch the surface of what the Caribbean really is—and they definitely don't describe the one-of-a-kind island of Dominica. The Caribbean's self-proclaimed "Nature Island," Dominica's a refreshingly unsullied paradise that wears a coat of many colors and should appeal to anyone who loves relaxed encounters with nature.
Ocean Blue
For one thing, Dominica does not boast white, sandy beaches. With its rocky and steep coastline, the island instead shows off awe-inspiring reefs and sea life, making it one of the top five diving destinations in the Caribbean, according to Scuba Diving magazine polls. The abrupt drop-offs just offshore provide divers with walls, swim-through caves and pinnacles, as well as a rich range of sea life and healthy reef colonies that impact visitors with spectacular shapes and a vibrant underwater palette.
Aside from diving and snorkeling, visitors to the island can arrange for whale watching tours with operators such as the Anchorage Hotel & Diving Center in Roseau (anchoragehotel.dm). Sperm whales find an idyllic habitat in Dominica's deep sheltered bays; rather than it being just a seasonal breeding ground, this is the only place in the world where the sperm whale resides year-round, although other species such as pilots and humpbacks also can be seen. Strict codes by the government ensure that tour operators are as least intrusive on the whales as possible. Rather than luring whales, Anchorage Hotel boats will insert a hydrophone into the water to listen to the whales and follow their chants to their location, always staying at a safe distance for both the boat and the lovable creatures.
Forest Green
Healthy, untouched nature is the name of the game in Dominica—both in and out of the water. Ninety percent of Dominica is green vegetation, and pristine rainforest blankets 60 percent of the island, much of it being part of Morne Trois Pitons National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site containing diverse flora and fauna, including more than 172 species of birds, and the second-largest boiling lake in the world (aptly named Boiling Lake). Hiking through this lush, volcanic wonderland is a great option—especially because there are no poisonous snakes, insects or plants anywhere.
To see the rainforest in a more condensed and comfortable way, while experiencing every bit of its glory, you can ride the Rainforest Aerial Tram. Located near the village of Laudat, the Aerial Tram lets you glide up through the imposing canopy of the rainforest, which at times is 75 to 85 feet above the ground. It is so high, in fact, that some species of birds in this habitat never touch the soil. The highlight here is the gut-dropping suspension bridge 350 feet above Breakfast River Gorge.
Red-Blooded Treks
Not far from Laudat you'll find Freshwater Lake, an ancient filled-in crater that is the source of the Roseau River, as well as the might behind the island's hydroelectric power. Surrounding the imposing body of water are hills and small forests that make for excellent short hikes, ending in stunning 2,800-foot-high views of both the valley below and the east coast of the island. At the lake, Warmmae L'Etang Group (warmmaeletangdominica.com) offers kayaking rentals and guided tours of the nearby landscapes and sulfur springs.
For more action, closer to the sea north of Roseau is Wacky Rollers (wackyrollers.com), a tour operator with an adventure park that includes zip-lining and treetop challenge courses that will get your heart racing as you whiz and stumble your way from tree to tree through suspension nets, cable lines and tightropes. Wacky Rollers also provides exciting guided kayak and tubing tours on one of Dominica's 365 rivers.
Speaking of rivers, you can't miss a tour on the Indian River, which flows into Prince Rupert Bay near Portsmouth. Cobra Tours (cobratours.dm) provides a pleasant guided trip up this river one mile upstream. Your boat will glide up this quiet stream, without the aid of a motor to protect the environment, as your guide tells you anything and everything there is to know about the island. The trip concludes at a village operated by Cobra Tours, where a delicious meal and a fully stocked bar await. You may even stay in one of the bungalows on-site for a true island experience.
Sunset Hues
Whether you stay near the shore or in the mountains, accommodations on Dominica are sure to put you in touch with the most beautiful sunsets imaginable. Proud of its verdant environment, Dominica does not attract high-impact tourism and thus maintains small, privately owned inns and hotels. In Roseau, the Evergreen Hotel (avirtualdominica.com/evergreen.htm) offers reasonably priced rooms with all the necessary comforts of home and an on-site restaurant. For a more serene "green" stay, visit the Exotica Cottages (exotica-cottages.com) in the mountainside above Roseau. Breathe the mountain air, bask in the amazing vistas, and savor the exquisite, organically grown and prepared food prepared by Fae Martin, the lodge's owner, who was formerly a professional dietician.
Whether you explore Dominica below the water's surface or above the trees, you'll find adventure in an idyllic environment full of color.
Book your trip today! Visit www.aa.com, call American/American Eagle reservations at 1-800-433-7300, or call your travel agent for more information.
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