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Butterfly town
By : Jenn Plum Auvil
Photos Fotos J. Kevin Foltz
Tucked away next to tourist hot spots Monterey, Pebble Beach and 17-mile Drive, Pacific Grove could easily be overshadowed by its more popular neighbors. But with plenty of small town charm, it’s not about to sit back and languish in obscurity.
When Robert Louis Stevenson stumbled upon the quiet enclave (founded in 1875 as a Methodist retreat), he famously penned, “I have never been in any place that seemed so dreamlike.” Today, one could still say the same about Pacific Grove’s elegant Victorian homes, friendly shops and abundance of cool wildlife, such as the resident sea otters and visiting Monarch butterflies, who stop by each year during their annual migration.
Wildlife By Land and Sea
The Monarch Grove Sanctuary may be quiet during the summer months, but come October, migrating Monarch butterflies make their winter home in the fragrant eucalyptus trees. Each year almost 25,000 butterflies travel from chilly Canada to rest in the temperate climate before heading west in February. If you’re fortunate enough to witness this colorful exhibition, take pictures, but don’t even think about touching the delicate butterflies. The police department enforces a hefty $1,000 fine for “molestation of butterflies.” This is no surprise in a town whose official moniker is Butterfly Town, U.S.A.
If you miss the winged spectacle, you can still get in touch with the area’s wildlife. Take a stroll along Asilomar State Beach during low tide and explore the tide pools teeming with mussels, hermit crabs, anemones and starfish. The same “look and don’t touch” policy applies here to protect this delicate ecosystem. Bring your binoculars to the beach at Lover’s Point to get a peek at sea otters floating on their backs and rolling in the gentle waters. To become even better acquainted with the sea otters, harbor seals and sea lions, gear up for a kayak tour of the bay with Adventures by the Sea (adventuresbythesea.com).
Two Beacons
A trip to Pacific Grove isn’t complete without stopping by the historical Point Pinos Lighthouse. Located at the tip of the peninsula on Ocean View Boulevard, it’s been alerting boaters about the craggy shoreline since 1855, making it the oldest continually operating lighthouse on the West Coast.
Downtown, a stretch of Lighthouse Avenue serves as a different point of reference as it beckons visitors to explore the quirky shops. Indulge your sweet tooth at Chocolate Dreams at 650 Lighthouse Ave. The selection of high-end cocoa treats includes enormous chocolate truffles and chocolate-covered Oreos that may send even the most serious chocoholic into sweet sugar reverie.
If you’re looking for gardening advice, Rosemary and Bill, the owners of Miss Trawick’s Garden Shop at 664 Lighthouse Ave., are happy to trade tips. But this little red house stocks an inventory that reaches far beyond the gardening set. In addition to garden and patio goods, there are funky handbags, eclectic home goods and plenty of butterfly accessories to celebrate Pacific Grove’s favorite part-time residents. Conveniently, you can work up an appetite shopping, then head to the Red House Café for soups, salads and sandwiches.
Pampering a beloved pooch? Chateau le Paws, off the main drag at 125 Ocean View Blvd., is the place in town to dress up your pup in the latest Juicy Couture. If your four-legged friend is along for the trip, bring him or her in for a relaxing spa service, including a pedicure and massage.
The Food Scene
Foodies are passionate about Passionfish (passionfish.net), the county’s first officially green restaurant. Chef Ted Walter’s commitment to sustainable fish and organic foods means that the menu is always changing, so every dining experience promises something new. Depending on the time of year and the fishing situation, you may dig into Quinault sablefish crusted with pepper accompanied with a wasabi slaw or Gulf of Maine scallops with tomato-truffle butter and thyme risotto custard.
For a more low-key dinner, go for grilled fish tacos or one of the daily specials accompanied by a blood orange margarita at the lively Peppers Mexicali Café (peppersmexicalicafe.com). Your biggest challenge will be to take it easy on the chips and salsa so you have room for your dinner.
Fandango (fandangorestaurant.com) lures diners with Mediterranean cuisine and a bustling Sunday brunch. Stick with classic breakfast favorites like a California omelette filled with guacamole or start the day with a heartier dish like osso buco or filet of sanddabs, a local seafood specialty.
Where to Stay
The best lodging options can be found along the mansion-studded oceanfront where multi-room Victorian gems have been turned into bed-and-breakfasts for every taste. The Martine Inn (martineinn.com), built in 1899, provides a turn-of-the-century experience with old-fashioned elegance. Even the entertainment harkens back to a pre-video game era with an 1890 white oak pool table in the game room and a reproducing piano turning out tunes. Want ice? There’s no traipsing down the hall at the Martine Inn; instead ice is delivered to your room in an 1800s ice bucket on a silver tray. The best amenity is the stunning ocean view from many of the rooms.
Just five blocks from Monterey Bay, The Pacific Grove Inn (pacificgrove-inn.com) is a historic landmark with some modern updates. All rooms are reminiscent of Queen Anne style with the addition of cable TV and free Wi-Fi. The Melinda Potter Buck Suite and Forest Pine Room offer more spacious digs, ideal for families traveling with little ones.
The Gosby House Inn (gosbyhouseinn.com) may not appeal to everyone with its floral prints and serious wallpaper, but it most certainly lives up to its Victorian roots with a refined and romantic air. In keeping with the proper dollhouse atmosphere, there’s a hearty breakfast buffet, afternoon wine and tea with tasty finger foods and freshly baked cookies. And if you become attached to the coziest room amenity—a plump teddy bear—you can take it home for just $35.
How To Get There: American Eagle provides service to Monterey, CA.
Book your trip today! Visit www.aa.com, call American/American Eagle reservations at 1-800-433-7300, or call your travel agent for more information.
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