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Portland: Longfellow’s “Jewel by the Sea”
By : Donald Rodrigue
If these ancient cobblestone streets could talk, they’d speak of a young New World full of dreams and aspirations, of tall sailing vessels laden with goods from around the globe, of revolutionary schemes and cannon and musket fire. They’d speak over and over of a new beginning, of rising from the ashes time and again. And of beacons shining in the night, lighting the way for lost and weary sailors.
Perched on the rocky coast of southern Maine’s Casco Bay, Portland’s strategic location on the country’s earliest commercial sea routes led to the prosperity of many of its citizens, much of which can still be seen in restored homes from the city’s heyday. The most important of these is undoubtedly the Wadsworth-Longfellow House (mainehistory.org), the childhood home of America’s beloved poet Henry Wadsworth Longfellow. This was the city’s first brick dwelling, built between 1785-86 at 489 Congress Street by his grandfather, General Peleg Wadsworth. Now under the watchful care of the Maine Historical Society, the house still boasts many of its original furnishings and offers a unique window into the everyday life of 19th-century Portland.
Two other important historical homes in Portland are the Tate House (tatehouse.org) built in 1755—the only pre-Revolutionary home open to the public—and Victoria Mansion (victoriamansion.org), also known as the Morse-Libby House, which was built between 1858-60.
The Portland Observatory at 138 Congress Street (portlandlandmarks.org) is another of the city’s interesting and historic buildings. Although closely resembling a lighthouse, the structure—built in 1807—is the only remaining maritime signal station in the country and an architectural “gem” of Portland’s past, when ancient sailing vessels competed for dockage space on the city’s busy wharfs.
While wandering about, be sure and visit the Portland Public Market (portlandmarket.com) at the corner of Cumberland Avenue and Preble Street. This colorful indoor market spans an entire city block and features a broad variety of vendors selling fresh flowers and produce, freshly baked breads, meats, seafoods and much more.
To better get your bearings, consider taking one of the walking tours of the city that depart from the Visitor Information Center at 245 Commercial Street.
The Call Of The Sea
Visitors can still catch a glimpse of the city’s maritime roots in the Old Port area, whose old warehouses and other structures have been converted into one of Portland’s hottest dining and shopping districts.
Casco Bay is sprinkled with hundreds of small islands, many of which are inhabited year-round. Ferries and mail boats depart daily for the larger ones, where visitors can hike, bicycle or even spend the night in a bed and breakfast. If you’re into sea kayaking, then companies such as Into the Wild Expeditions and Maine Island Kayak Company can take you on guided tours of the bay. Other cruise options include seasonal whale-watching expeditions and sailing to Nova Scotia on the Scotia Prince, a cruise ship offering nightly departures to Yarmouth.
Landlubbers can explore one of the numerous hiking and biking trails maintained by Portland Trails, an urban conservation group and land trust. These include several that border the shoreline of Casco Bay: the Cove, Eastern Prom and Harborwalk. The latter takes adventurers across the Fore River to Bug Light Park, home to the adorable Portland Breakwater Lighthouse.
Several other lighthouses are located in the immediate vicinity, including the Spring Point Light and the adjoining Portland Harbor Museum dedicated to the craft of 19th-century shipbuilding; the Portland Head Lighthouse, a beautiful drive farther southwest on Cape Elizabeth, whose majestic surroundings served as inspiration for one of Longfellow’s most famous poems; and Two Lights State Park on the other tip of the cape, home to two lighthouses.
Dining and Nightlife
Seafood lovers will definitely want to put Portland on their must-visit list. The cold New England waters are renowned for their bounty of delicious fare, with Maine lobster topping the list. Of course, you can’t leave town without trying New England clam chowder, a creamy regional specialty made of milk and chunks of potato and clams that’s perfect for taking the chill out of those cold winter evenings.
For a true Portland dining experience, head to Amato’s Catering and Deli at 71 India Street for a “Real Italian,” a tangy combination of cold cuts, cheese, Greek olives, pickles and other ingredients stacked high on a freshly baked Italian sandwich roll. Founded by Italian immigrant Giovanni Amato, the chain has branches throughout the city and other parts of Maine, but the rolls are still baked according to the original recipe. For dessert, grab a whoopie pie—truly endemic to the state, this gooey confection consists of a rich cream filling sandwiched between two devil’s food cookies.
For a special night on the town while here, visit Dimillo’s Floating Restaurant, located in the heart of the city’s Old Port. Created from an old car ferry, this luxurious dining establishment offers an extensive menu of Italian and seafood entrees. One of the restaurant’s unique entrees is Cajun-style, deep-fried lobster tails: chunks of succulent lobster meat coated in a spicy batter. And be sure and save room for the Maine blueberry cobbler, a delightfully rich confection highlighting one of the state’s most famous exports.
Portland is also known for the cozy ambience of its coffee shops and pubs, with some of the latter like Gritty McDuff's and Stone Coast Brewing even brewing their own unique brands of beer such as Portland Head Light Pale Ale and Sunday River Alt, respectively.
For such a small city (metropolitan population of 230,000), Portland offers a plethora of big-city cultural delights. Both the 1,900-seat Merrill Auditorium (25 Myrtle Street) and the State Theater (609 Congress Street) host numerous concerts and performers throughout the year. The city is home to several art galleries and the Portland Museum of Art (Seven Congress Square), which houses permanent collections of European, American and decorative arts. Many city galleries are open late (5-8 p.m.) the first Friday of every month for the Portland Art Walk, when visitors can take a self-guided tour of the participating galleries.
To book your next trip, visit www.aa.com or call American Airlines / American Eagle reservations at 1-800-433-7300 or your local travel agent.
Book your trip today! Visit www.aa.com, call American/American Eagle reservations at 1-800-433-7300, or call your travel agent for more information.
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